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Tochigi Tanning Company

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˯ More About Tochigi ˯

Tochigi Natural Tanned Leather, Offical Seal

Tochigi Leather Company

One of Only a Few Truly Natural Tanneries

Since 1932, Tochigi Leather Company has been tanning leather according to an exhaustive traditional Japanese process using 100% naturally-derived vegetable tannins and pigments. Their natural tannage and traditional process yields leathers with a unique combination of attributes: suppleness unexpected of leather so durable, natural character unexpected of leather with such consistent color, and a matte surface unexpected of leather without a waxy crust.

Tochigi Leather Company Overview
Tochigi Leather Company Process
Botanical Illustration of Mimosa Bloom

100% Vegetable Tannins

Extracted from Mimosa Bark

Tochigi uses tannins extracted entirely in-house from the bark of Mimosa trees. Mimosa tannin has an ultra-low concentration of salts and acids, with a shockingly-low pH (usually around 4.6–4.8), and produces leather that better maintains the cellular integrity of animal hides. Further, this tannin has a natural affinity for collagen, resulting in long-lasting, chemically-stable leathers less prone to oxidation. Finally, Mimosa tannin is naturally resistant to many common bacteria and fungus, which helps reduce footwear odor.

A 20-Step Process

Requiring Knowledge & Skill

Tochigi's factory is home to 160 in-ground pit tanks, similar to those traditionally used to ferment soy sauce, where hides are tanned for a minimum of 90 days before being air-dried thoroughly—then tanned once more. Even the drying process is a labor of love, with the heavy hides being regularly shuffled to ensure consistent exposure to air circulated by the oscillating fans nearby. Humidity and temperature are closely monitored and drying times are adjusted accordingly by craftsmen well-versed in Tochigi protocol. Even the final finishing depends on a high degree of skill, with each hide's thickness being measured manually before being ironed by hand.

Tochigi Leather Company Overview
Tochigi Leather Company Process

The Largest of the Small

Now the World's Largest Traditional Natural Tannery

Nearly a century ago, Tochigi committed to traditional natural tanning, despite the many advances in industrial chemistry and synthetic dyestuffs being made at the time. While natural tanning requires far more time and high-skill labor, Tochigi remained competitive by embracing the more conceptual advancements of the industrial age: standardization of processes, specialization of workers, and optimizations based on institutional knowledge. Today, the Tochigi Leather Company sits between two worlds—with product quality associated with artisanal tanners and product consistency typical only of its much larger peers.

Proud of the Product

Proud of the Byproduct

Tochigi's efficiency benefits more than its bottom line. In fact, it's more refinery than factory—refining hides into leather—and leather tanning byproducts into clean water and fertile soil. Like many factories, tanneries in particular, Tochigi's facility was built on the banks of a river. But Tochigi is notable not for how much water it draws from its local Bamba River, but how much it returns to the source. Leather tanning is thirsty business, but the plant extracts Tochigi uses are able to be broken-down without the use of use of toxic solvents. So when tannages are exhausted, Tochigi filters and purifies the roughly 66% of water not lost to evaporation—then pumps it directly back into the river—even cleaner than it was when drawn. More remarkable, the filtered sediments are composted and repurposed into an organic soil and horticultural conditioner used to landscape parks and golf courses. This means the Tochigi Leather Company is also the Tochigi Water Purification Plant and the Tochigi Solid Waste Treatment Center.

Tochigi Leather Company Sustainability
Tochigi Leather Company Certification

Included in the Boot Box

The Mark of Excellence

Tochigi is proud of its work—and we're proud to put its work to work. Inside each of our limited-edition boots featuring Tochigi leather is a handsome card certifying the leather's authenticity. The copy may be written in Japanese, but it's printed on paper nice enough that no translator is needed to understand the message.

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