Hand-Lasted 270° Goodyear Welt Construction. Horween® Chromexcel Roughout Leather. Unstructured Toe. Black Itshide® Commando® Sole. Stacked Leather Heel with Commando® Toplift. Barbour® Welt. Calfskin Vamp Lining. Natural Undyed Thread Stitching. Antique Brass Quarter Rivets & Eyelets. Cougar #50 Rawhide Laces.
Shop Trench OxfordDeveloped to embody the character of Chicago, the Elston last is engineered specifically for our line of Everyday Boots, providing exceptional all-day comfort for nearly all foot types with a generous toe box.
Shop Elston LastItshide has been producing the legendary Commando sole in Petersfield, England since the early 20th century. Adopted by the British Army in 1940, this sole has since been deployed by armed forces and explorers on every corner of the globe—with good reason. Despite their aggressive appearance, Itshide Commando soles are remarkably springy, shock-absorbant, and add certainty to every step.
Shop Commando SoleHorween's Roughout is a version of its famous Chromexcel® with the rough side out. Similar to a rugged suede in texture, but with a firmer hand and color that deepens and develops a beautiful patina with wear.
Shop Chromexcel RoughoutWe are 100% committed to manufacturing all our footwear and accessories in the United States.
All our footwear is 100% recraftable, meaning it can be re-soled again and again.
At the outset of World War II, both the United States and the United Kingdom faced a similar dilemma with regards to boots. Both would deploy novel strategies that would require specialized footwear and neither had the time or resources required to develop something from scratch. Instead, each would work with a local manufacturing firm to make a single but critical modification to an existing boot platform which would better prepare soldiers for specific conditions.
The American “Island Hopping” strategy would require amphibious landings and engagements on the extremely hot and humid islands of the South Pacific. They needed a water-resistant boot. At the time, Chicago’s own Horween Leather Co. was well-known for making water-resistant leather for industrial gaskets and washers. The Department of Defense asked Horween to develop a roughout leather with water-resistant properties similar to those used in industrial tonnages. The result was a special tannage named “Marine Field Shoe” known today as “Natural Chromexcel Roughout.”
After the necessary but embarrassing evacuation at Dunkirk, Churchill had to let the world know the Brits were still in the fight—and he didn’t have time to rebuild an army in order to do it. Instead, he would rely on the Commandos, an elite class of soldier trained in special operations, to conduct covert raids and espionage. At this time, Commandos wore boots with leather soles equipped with steel hobnails—which presented a particular challenge to sneaking around in the dark. They needed a sole that wouldn’t make a lot of noise, but still offered exceptional traction on all types of terrain. The Ministry of Defense would contract the I.T.S. Rubber Company to develop an entirely new type of sole from soft yet durable rubber, with deep lugs for traction. Thus, the “Itshide Commando Sole” was born, which today remains the most comfortable and quietest all-terrain sole.
This collection pays tribute to these two achievements by pairing them together: American water-resistant roughout leather with British soft lugged soles.
